Dined alone last evening for the first time in many days, the diminishing no. of pilgers from "my group" virtually ensuring this. Anyway, I bought goods in the Supermercado and ate in the park. Funny thing is, I spent 6.15€, and for only 0.15€ more I could have had a Menu del Dia at Manolo´s!
Walked to the bus station to farewell Deanne and Barry which was a good closure. At 10pm on the station waiting for the Madrid sleeper, I met three Vancouver women I had briefly walked and lost contact with, so that was good. My room mate in our 4 berth cabin was a Spaniard returning to Madrid. As he had some English I was more comfortable with what would occur on arrival. Our train was late so I hurried to the ticket office to find everyone standing in line. After 5 minutos I realised a window was selling Toledo tickets independently, so got mine and made the train with a few minutes to spare. As they are building a rapid transit line, we had to get off the train and go by bus the last section. People rushed off the bus, bought a map for 2€ and disappeared while I was still wrestling with the Carrix! Setting off, I met two Oregon girls who looked just as lost as me. It turned out several of the family of one of them had taken a taxi, but took the only map with them. Hey ladies, I´ve a map, you´ve a Pension, let´s join forces. They were terrific to me, giving me a hand up the steps, of which there were MANY. And the charge for the night is 15@ so I´m staying here for two nights. It´s a small room and I share facilities but who cares!? It´s much more private and spacious than most of the accommodation on the Camino.
First item, a shower. Then to get my clothes washed. Walked to the Auto-Servicio Tontoreria to find it Cerado (that´s shut, folks) with no note or times of opening. The pharmacist shrugged - perhaps she´s French?
After lunch, a bit of shopping, a tour of the cathedral and a snooze, found at 5pm the wash shop was still closed. As I am sweating so much I will really have to wash the clothes more frequently, and it´s just not possible in the Pension. GRRR
Anyway, Toledo looks largely rebuilt, there is so much obvious restoration. The colors are pale golds and browns, and the city, perched on a hill, has as confusing a set of roads, streets, and alleys as I have seen. It has good feel, though, so I hope to pretty much cover the whole place tomorrow.
God bless you all.